Kada je Virginie Viard - desna ruka Karla Lagerfelda, preuzela gormilo modne kuće Chanel,nije bilo osobe u modnom svetu koja nije sumnjala i koja sa nestrpljenjem nije ičekivala novu kolekciju.
Izvor: Foto: Profimedia
Koliko god Karl zaslužio veliko i opravdano poštovanje u modnom svetu, činjenica je da je veliki dizajner već odveć bio umoran i da se to u njegovim kolekcijama ogledalo poprilično.
Dugo, zaista dugo, na Chanel revijama nismo imali priliku da vidimo komade koji ne samo da nisu ponudili ništa revolucionarno, već jednostavno nisu doneli ništa naročito novo, a što je možda najgore, nisu nas oduševili.
Coco Chanel je imala tu sreću da za života doživi ogromnu slavu i da njen rad bude prepoznat i cenjen, iako je to u njamanju ruku bilo neočekivano: njena ideja o komplet ženskim bukle odelima bila je tih 1920-ih vrlo šokantna. Pogotovo, uzevši u obzir činjenicu da je model kostima preuzet direktno iz muškog garderobera.
Coco ne samo da je dobila priznanje za svoj i te kako revolucionaran rad i svakako ogorman iskorak u svetu ženske mode, već je zahvaljujući svom stilskom stavu vezanom za ideju kako bi žene trebalo da se odevaju, vrlo inspirativno uticala na osnaživanje žena u post-ratnom periodu.
Više nego dovoljno razloga da svoje modno zaveštanje svetu ne poklonite na tacni, a pogotvo ne jednom modno osveštenom Nemcu.
Ne zna se naravno koje je sve postulate Coco podcrtala kao obavezne u kući Chanel, ali ono što je sigurno to je da prepoznatljiv dnk brenda ni po koju cenu ne sme da se menja.
Zato je uneti nešto novo u svaku novu kolekciju bio zaista megalomanski posao, pre svega izuzetno zahtevan i težak posao. Karl se opravdano umorio.
I nije se samo umorio. Posmatrajući njegove poslednje kolekcije, reklo bi se da više nije imao inspiraciju kako da u jasno označenim smernicama nađe prostor za nove ideje, svakako ne one revolucionarne.
Kao da se poslednjih par godina nad njim nadivila senka Coco, koja je upitno i pomalo preteći podigla obrvu, zauzdavši svaki njegov korak i pitavši se:
Ti blesavi, starče. Šta to radiš sa mojim zaveštanjem? Ako više nemaš inspiraciju, onda se bar drži onoga u šta si siguran. Prati moje jasno podcrtane smernice.
Međutim, igra na sigurno u modi nikome ništa dobro nije donela, a poajmanje nekoga proslavila.
Čini se da Viardova to vrlo dobro zna i zato polovina njenih modela (ali bukvalno polovina: kada posmatrate komade kao odvojene celine, a ne onako kako su upareni u jednom stajlngu, oni zaista donose nešto novo sa sobom) predstavljaju ono neophodno osveženje, koje je Chanelu tako dugo trebalo.
Ipak, Chanel prokletstvo primetno je i u radu Virginie Viard, čiju jednu ruku čvrsto steže ona u prepoznatljivoj crnoj rukavici bez prstiju.
Novu Chanel kolekciju i dalje pohodi prokletstvo zaveštanja kuće
Author: Cyril Pecquenard
Copyright:
Author: Cyril Pecquenard
Copyright:
Author: Cyril Pecquenard
Copyright:
Author: Cyril Pecquenard
Copyright:
Author: Cyril Pecquenard
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Author: Cyril Pecquenard
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Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:24
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:24
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:24
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:24
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:25
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:26
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:26
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:26
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:27
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:27
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:28
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:29
Author: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Copyright: Gil-Gonzalez Alain/ABACA
Description: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. Photo by Alain Gil-Gonzalez/ABACAPRESS.COM
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 9.1 (Macintosh); BAGHEERA / PROPIXO; JpegMetadataToolkit 1.11
Created: 2020:03:04 14:04:35
Software:Capture One 20 Macintosh
Created: 2020:03:04 14:44:46
Software:Capture One 20 Macintosh
Created: 2020:03:04 14:44:57
Author: Steve Wood
Copyright: Steve Wood
Description: Chanel staged a comparatively low-key affair for Paris Fashion Week as the coronavirus outbreak kept many of the regular VIPs and fashion editors away. The stalwart Parisian design house streamed its show online. Some guests who came to see Chanel’s fall collection up close on Tuesday wore CC-branded face masks.
Restraint was also evoked in Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard’s collection in a marked departure from her showman predecessor and mentor, the late Karl Lagerfeld. Although the display took place at the Grand Palais exhibition hall on the Champs-Elysees in Paris, simplicity was the Chanel “mot du jour” — from the set of tiered white steps to the pared-down aesthetic of monochrome.
Paris Fashion Week
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 7.5 (Macintosh)
Created: 2020:03:04 14:51:34
Author: Steve Wood
Copyright: Steve Wood
Description: Chanel staged a comparatively low-key affair for Paris Fashion Week as the coronavirus outbreak kept many of the regular VIPs and fashion editors away. The stalwart Parisian design house streamed its show online. Some guests who came to see Chanel’s fall collection up close on Tuesday wore CC-branded face masks.
Restraint was also evoked in Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard’s collection in a marked departure from her showman predecessor and mentor, the late Karl Lagerfeld. Although the display took place at the Grand Palais exhibition hall on the Champs-Elysees in Paris, simplicity was the Chanel “mot du jour” — from the set of tiered white steps to the pared-down aesthetic of monochrome.
Paris Fashion Week
Software:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 7.5 (Macintosh)
Created: 2020:03:04 14:52:43